Polynucleotides vs Profhilo: two skin boosters, different jobs

What Profhilo actually is

Profhilo has been on the market since 2015. It is 100 per cent hyaluronic acid (HA), not chemically cross-linked like traditional dermal fillers. Instead, it uses a process called NAHYCO Hybrid Technology, which uses heat to bind together high molecular weight HA (1100-1400 KDa) and low molecular weight HA (80-100 KDa) into stable complexes without chemical reagents.

Because it is not cross-linked, Profhilo is very low viscosity. This means it spreads and integrates quickly through the skin layers, rather than sitting as a discrete depot like a filler. The high molecular weight component provides hydration and volume; the low molecular weight component penetrates deeper and stimulates fibroblasts to produce collagen and elastin.

In practice, clients see visible skin plumping and radiance within 1-2 weeks. The effect peaks and typically lasts about 6 months before the body metabolises the HA naturally. Because HA is reversible with hyaluronidase, if a client is unhappy with the result, it can be dissolved.

What polynucleotides actually are

Polynucleotides are highly purified chains of DNA fragments extracted from salmon sperm. Salmon DNA is used because it shares significant compatibility with human DNA, making it well-tolerated by the immune system. The extraction process carefully removes proteins that could trigger an immune response, leaving only the biologically active nucleic acid strands in a sterile injectable solution.

These DNA fragments work by activating adenosine A2A receptors in skin cells. This activation triggers a cascade of cellular events: reduced inflammation, increased fibroblast proliferation, enhanced vascular growth factor production, and direct stimulation of collagen synthesis. Unlike Profhilo, which works primarily through hydration and growth factor release, polynucleotides are working at the cellular repair level.

Because the effect is driven by cell regeneration rather than volume addition, results are gradual. Most clients notice progressive improvement in skin texture, firmness, and quality over 2-3 months. The regenerative effects tend to last around 12 months, making polynucleotides more durable than Profhilo in terms of treatment interval.

Which does what: a clear comparison

The core distinction is this: Profhilo hydrates and biostimulates broadly across the face. Polynucleotides repair and regenerate specific tissue damage.

• · Profhilo produces immediate results (1-2 weeks) and lasts 6 months. Polynucleotides produce gradual results (2-3 months) and last 12 months.
• · Profhilo is best for skin laxity, loss of radiance, and a general "lifting" effect. Polynucleotides are best for acne scarring, sun damage, and thin, crepey skin.
• · Profhilo works well across the whole face and décolletage. Polynucleotides excel in delicate areas: under the eyes, neck, and around the mouth where skin is thin and prone to damage.
• · Profhilo is entirely reversible with hyaluronidase. Polynucleotides cannot be reversed, though the effect does naturally diminish over time.
• · Profhilo produces visible plumping and skin tightening. Polynucleotides produce more subtle, progressive improvement in skin quality and resilience.

In my clinic, the most successful approach is often both. A client might have Profhilo for overall hydration and biostimulation, then add polynucleotides specifically under the eyes or to scarred areas where cellular repair is the priority. They address complementary goals.

When to choose Profhilo

Choose Profhilo if your main concern is skin laxity, loss of radiance, or the early signs of volume loss. It is ideal if you want visible results quickly, or if you are planning an event in the next 2-3 weeks. It works well for clients who are not yet at the point of needing filler but want active skin rejuvenation. It is also a good first step for younger clients (late twenties and early thirties) who want to invest in skin quality before deeper lines form.

Because Profhilo is entirely hyaluronic acid, it carries no foreign DNA and poses no theoretical risk related to genetic material. For clients concerned about the origin of polynucleotides or preferring a more conventional ingredient, Profhilo is a safer psychological choice, even if the clinical risk of polynucleotides is low.

When to choose polynucleotides

Choose polynucleotides if you have acne scarring, sun damage, or thin, fragile skin that needs genuine cellular repair. They are the clear choice for the under-eye area, where skin is thinnest and most prone to crepiness and fine lines. Clients concerned with skin resilience and wanting to improve the underlying quality of their skin (rather than just add volume) tend to see the most satisfaction.

Polynucleotides are also appropriate if you prefer longer intervals between treatments and are willing to wait for gradual results. Because the effect lasts 12 months, you commit to fewer injections per year than with Profhilo.

Clients with thin skin around the neck and decolletage often benefit most from polynucleotides, as this is an area where dermal repair and collagen stimulation make a visible difference that hydration alone may not achieve.

A note on regulation and honesty

As of 2026, the UK aesthetic medicine industry remains largely unregulated. Proposed legislation coming in July 2026 will require all practitioners performing cosmetic injectables to be registered, accredited, and fully compliant. New guidance classifies "skin booster-type injections" as medium-risk procedures, bringing them under stricter oversight.

Profhilo is an established product with a long safety track record and clear regulatory history. Polynucleotides, while used safely in aesthetic practice across Europe for some years, occupy a more ambiguous regulatory space in the UK. No specific MHRA statement directly addresses polynucleotides' classification. If you choose polynucleotides, ensure your practitioner is medically trained, insured, and transparent about the product's origin and purity.

I mention this not to discourage polynucleotide use, but to ensure you are informed. Any aesthetics treatment carries risk if delivered by an undertrained practitioner in an unclean environment. Choose a practitioner with a nursing or medical background, not just a short weekend course.

A practical word on expectations

Neither skin booster is a substitute for good skincare or professional-grade treatments like micro-needling. Both work best as part of a broader routine: diligent sun protection, retinoids, vitamin C, and a good cleanser.

If you have untreated acne, severe sun damage, or significant scarring, your practitioner may recommend starting with micro-needling or other collagen-induction therapies before adding polynucleotides. If your main concern is mild volume loss, a strategic course of Profhilo might be enough without needing filler.

Be sceptical of any clinic promising dramatic results after one treatment, or of practitioners who push you towards both treatments immediately. In my experience, the most satisfied clients are those who start with one treatment, review the result at 2-3 weeks, and then decide if a second treatment or a complementary option makes sense.

Common questions